Itinerary in the Baronies between territories, cellars and farmhouses
A food and wine tour in the historical-geographical sub-region of the Baronie in Sardinia allows us to culturally explore the north-eastern area of the island along the Tyrrhenian coast, between the gulfs of Orosei and Olbia. The municipalities of Lodè, Posada, Siniscola and Torpè are part of the Barony of Posada, while Dorgali and Irgoli belong to the Barony of Orosei, as well as the latter municipality. The Sardinian sub-regions bordering Le Baronie are Gallura, Monteacuto and Barbagia di Nuoro. What follows is an itinerary among wineries and farmhouses to discover the genuine food and wine of the area.
Those who start their journey from the Italian peninsula can use the ships departing for Olbia from Livorno and Civitavecchia (all year round) and also from Genoa (from May to October) and from Piombino (from June to September). The Livorno – Olbia ferries take approximately 9 hours to complete the 165 nautical miles of the outward or return leg; deck passage, armchair or cabin can be booked at the previous link. The Civitavecchia – Olbia ferries take 8 hours to sail along the 120 nautical miles that separate the two ports; tickets can be purchased at the specified link and also in this case it is possible to make the journey in a deck seat, reclining seat or cabin, with or without a vehicle or pets.
From the port of Olbia to Torpè there are about 48 kilometers away, to be covered by car or with the ARST bus line 514. From Torpè to Siniscola you have to drive or take a taxi for 18 kilometres. From Siniscola to Galtellì, the distance of which is 48 kilometres, if you are not traveling with a vehicle, you can take the ARST bus number 521. From Galtellì to Dorgali (14.7 kilometres) you can also travel by bus with the line 521. From Dorgali to the port of Olbia there are about 99 kilometers away which can also be covered by bus, with a change in Siniscola from line 521 to line 514. If you have to drive, it is recommended that you do a small tasting at the most and to buy the bottle to open it, perhaps, in a farmhouse, where both catering and accommodation services are offered.
Torpè
The municipality of Torpè, with about 2,800 inhabitants, is located in the province of Nuoro. The territory was already inhabited in the pre-Nuragic era, as evidenced by some domus de janas and tombs of the giants. The most important prehistoric monument of the Baronies dates back to the Bronze Age, the nuraghe San Pietro, not far from the homonymous nuragic village where various and interesting archaeological finds have been found. In the territory there is also a part of the regional natural park of Tepilora, Sant’Anna and Rio Posada.
The Su Vrau Farmhouse is located in unspoiled nature, in the locality of the same name, on the SS road 131 Diramazione Centrale Nuorese, between Torpè and Posada, and offers seafood cuisine characterized by typical Sardinian dishes. Reservations can be made on the telephone number 0784 829010. Sa Inza Farmhouse (telephone number 328 2579271), in the Santeddu di Torpè area, is family-run and it is located in the countryside but a few kilometers from the sea. The cuisine is typically Sardinian, with specialties made with fresh produce from the farm: wine, carrasau bread, pecorino cheese, malloreddus, seadas and more.
Siniscola
Siniscola is an important center of the Baronie where there are many beaches and various archaeological sites, such as the domus de janas of Cucuru ‘e Janas, the caves on Monte Albo, the pre-Nuragic village of Berchida and the tombs of the giants between Capo Comino and Irgoli.
Pompia is a citrus fruit endemic to the Siniscola area used in the preparation of desserts such as sa pompìa intrea, a Slow Food presidium since 2004. The Tholoi farm, in Murtas Artas, produces liqueur and pompia jam, as well as myrtle.
The payoff of the Contu Winery (AgriFertas Agricultural Society), located in Via Montalbo (telephone number 339 4642348), is “Wines of the Baronia”. The vineyard is located in a valley ventilated by the sea breeze. From the shale-clayey terroir a tasty grape is born, with aromas of flora. The Ardéa is a Vermentino di Sardegna DOC, the Fértas is a Cannonau di Sardegna DOP, the Kamélia is a Cannonau di Sardegna Rosato DOP.
The Punta Lizzu agritourism company is located in Ofricatu. In the kitchen, products that are processed or grown on site are used. Wine, oil, olives, fruit and vegetables are grown on the farm and the pasta and cheese are handmade.
Galtellì
Galtellì, in the province of Nuoro, has about 2500 inhabitants. The town, separated from the sea by Monte Tuttavista, 806 meters high, is the setting for the novel Canne al vento by Grazia Deledda, after which the municipality has named a literary park.
The Cantine Mastio Hofmann, in via Oristano, were born in the seventies, when grandfather Michele planted the first Cannonau vineyards, to which those of Vermentino and Montepulciano were added over time. You can book a tasting tour to discover the wines, which are paired with Sardinian gastronomic specialities. For visits and tastings in the vineyard and in the cellar, you can call Paola on 348 7644975 or Ignazio on 328 7367740. Among the wines produced we have the Cannonau di Sardegna DOC Pontes and Banduleri, the IGT Isola dei Nuraghi Rosè Suergios, Rosso Frantzisca and Banduleri Bianco and the Vermentino di Sardegna DOC Malicas.
The Tenuta Don Ballore farmhouse (telephone number 347 0554431) is located between a centuries-old olive grove and the Cannonau and Vermentino vineyards. Breakfast, both sweet and savory, is prepared with ingredients from the farm (fruit, jams, typical Sardinian sweets, bread, cold cuts and cheeses). In the restaurant you can taste typical dishes such as ravioli with cheese, maccarones de busa, malloreddos, fregola, roasts and stewed meats and homemade wine.
Dorgali
Dorgali is a town of more than 8000 inhabitants in the province of Nuoro. The surface of about 225 kilometers is located at the crossroads between Le Baronie and Barbagia di Nuoro. The northern area of the territory is the one that belongs to the southern area of the sub-region of the Baronie. The nuragic complex of Serra Orrios is a well-preserved village made up of around a hundred huts and two sacred areas with small temples.
The approximately ten hectares of vineyards of the Cantina Berritta, to which are added three hectares of olive groves, are located in the Oddoene valley. The terroir is characterized by decaying granite mixed with limestone. The farm offers visits and tasting experiences to be booked on the telephone number 377 325 6459. The wines to be tasted are paired with samples of typical salami, bread and cheeses. Most of the production is centered on Cannonau di Sardegna DOC with Monte Tundu and Baillanu, the reds Thurcalesu and Nostranu and the rosé Marinu; the Panzale white wine is organic; the Don Baddore (red) and the Istranzu are branded Isola dei Nuraghi IGT.
The Mastros de ‘Inu winery (telephone 340 9379439) is located in the Fologhe valley. The terroir of the Iloghe vineyard consists of sandy soil originating from the decay of granite and it is mainly cultivated in Cannonau, while the vineyard closest to the cellar, granite, is used for Vermentino. The “free open tasting” is offered to those who are passing through on arrival in Dorgali or on departure for the port or airport of Olbia. The food and wine itinerary, on the other hand, includes a visit to the vineyard with explanations on winemaking, access to the cellar with wine tasting paired with typical local specialties and information on the archaeological and naturalistic sites present in the vicinity. Another type of food and wine itinerary takes place among the vineyards at dusk with the tasting of wines accompanied by a menu based on cold dishes of the Dorgali tradition.
